When one joint is worn, you should be able to replace one joint. These are individual replacement bearings for all of our kits, sold one at a time in both 5/8 and 3/4 — rod ends in left hand and right hand thread, plus uniball bearings for radius rod ends and sway bar links. Pick the size and the thread hand you need from the dropdown and buy only that piece.
The variant list is the whole decision. Size first — 5/8 or 3/4, matched to the joint that is already in the part. Then type: a rod end threads into an adjustable rod, a uniball presses into a radius rod end or a sway bar link. If you are buying a rod end, thread hand matters, because left hand and right hand threads are not interchangeable.
Key Features
- Individual replacement bearings for all of our kits — sold singly, not only as a set
- 5/8 Rod End Left Hand Threaded
- 5/8 Rod End Right Hand Threaded
- 3/4 Rod End Left Hand Threaded
- 3/4 Rod End Right Hand Threaded
- 5/8 Radius Rod Uniball Bearing
- 3/4 Uniball Bearing
- 5/8 Sway Bar Link Uniball Bearing (listed in the dropdown with the manufacturer's spelling, "5/8 Sway Bark Link Uniball Bearing")
- Both common UTV sizes stocked in both thread hands, so an adjustable rod can be rebuilt end to end
- Replace a single notchy or sloppy joint instead of a whole rod or a whole kit
Built To Solve: One Worn Heim Joint Or Uniball Forcing You To Rebuy A Whole Radius Rod Kit
- One end goes gritty, the rest are fine. These are sold individually, so the fix costs one bearing.
- You do not know whether you need a rod end or a uniball. Rod ends have a threaded shank and screw into an adjustable rod; uniballs are a plain spherical ball in a housing that presses into a radius rod end or a sway bar link. The dropdown separates them.
- You ordered the wrong thread hand last time. Left hand and right hand are both listed here in both sizes, so you can match what came out.
- Mixed sizes on one machine. Some LM UTV parts run 5/8 joints and some run 3/4. Both sizes are stocked, so you do not have to guess and order twice.
- A spare in the trailer. Buying one extra of the size you run is cheap insurance on a trip.
Best For: LM UTV Owners Replacing A Single Heim Joint, Rod End Or Uniball
- Owners of an LM UTV radius rod, tie rod or sway bar link kit who have one worn or damaged joint
- Riders who inspect their joints and want to swap the one that has play before it gets worse
- Anyone rebuilding an adjustable rod who needs a matched left hand and right hand pair
- Riders who want a spare 5/8 or 3/4 joint in the toolbox before a trip
- If every joint in the rod is worn, the LM UTV replacement bearing kit is the better buy — it covers a full set, and there is a version with spacers, o-rings and C-clips
- If you only need hardware — spacers, o-rings, clips, bolts — the spare hardware listing is the right page, not this one
Specifications
- Sold as: individual replacement bearings, one per selection
- Sizes offered: 5/8 and 3/4
- Rod end options: 5/8 Left Hand Threaded, 5/8 Right Hand Threaded, 3/4 Left Hand Threaded, 3/4 Right Hand Threaded
- Uniball options: 5/8 Radius Rod Uniball Bearing, 3/4 Uniball Bearing, 5/8 Sway Bar Link Uniball Bearing
- Rod end use: threads into an adjustable rod
- Uniball use: radius rod ends and sway bar links
- Application: replacement bearings for all of our kits
- Manufacturer Part Number: HB-JMX-10T-LH
Fitment
These are listed as individual replacement bearings for all of our kits, so they are sold by size and type rather than by machine year or model — the vendor states no year range and we are not going to invent one. Match the bearing to the part you are rebuilding: measure or check the existing joint for 5/8 or 3/4, confirm rod end versus uniball, and for a rod end confirm the thread hand before ordering. If you are fitting these to a kit from another brand, confirm size, thread and housing dimensions with us first, because they are listed as replacements for LM UTV kits. Fitment is not guaranteed on applications not listed here.
FAQ
How do I know whether I need a 5/8 or a 3/4 heim joint?
Go by the part you are rebuilding, not by the machine. LM UTV kits use both sizes depending on the part, so the reliable method is to check the joint that is already in the rod — the size refers to the bore of the spherical ball, and it is usually easiest to confirm by measuring the bolt that passes through it or by checking the thread on the shank of the old rod end. Both sizes are stocked here, so once you know which one you have, order that.
What is the difference between a rod end and a uniball bearing?
Both are spherical bearings that let a joint pivot in more than one plane, which is general mechanical terminology rather than a claim about this specific part. The practical difference is how they mount. A rod end — also called a heim joint — has a threaded shank and screws into the end of an adjustable rod, which is what lets you change length and set alignment. A uniball is just the spherical ball and its housing with no threaded shank; it presses into a machined bore, which on these applications is the end of a radius rod or a sway bar link. If your old part unscrewed, you want a rod end. If it pressed out, you want a uniball.
What does left hand versus right hand thread mean, and how do I tell which one I have?
Right hand thread is the normal one — turn it clockwise to tighten. Left hand thread is the reverse, and it tightens counterclockwise. Adjustable rods commonly use one of each end so the rod can be lengthened or shortened by turning the tube without unbolting either end. To tell them apart, look at the thread with the shank pointing away from you: right hand threads climb up to the right, left hand threads climb up to the left. If the old part is still in hand, the easiest check is which way it unscrewed. Left hand and right hand are not interchangeable, so order the one that matches.
Can I replace just one bearing, or do I have to do the whole rod?
You can replace just one — that is what this listing is for. These are sold as individual replacement bearings for all of our kits, so a single notchy or sloppy joint can be swapped without buying a rod or a full kit. That said, joints on the same machine wear at similar rates, so it is worth checking the others while you are in there.
Which uniball do I order for a sway bar link?
The 5/8 Sway Bar Link Uniball Bearing. It appears in the dropdown as "5/8 Sway Bark Link Uniball Bearing" — that spelling is the manufacturer's, and it is the sway bar link bearing. Do not confuse it with the 5/8 Radius Rod Uniball Bearing, which is a separate selection for a different position.
Will these fit heim joints and radius rod kits from other brands?
They are listed as replacement bearings for all of our kits, meaning LM UTV kits, so that is what we can confirm them for. Plenty of UTV suspension parts use nominal 5/8 and 3/4 joints, but housing bore, width and thread pitch vary between manufacturers, and a bearing that is the right nominal size can still be wrong for another brand's rod. Contact us with the brand and part before ordering rather than assuming it will drop in.
Why LM UTV
LM UTV builds around specific OEM failure points on Can-Am and Polaris machines — radius rods, tie rods, ball joints and chassis reinforcement — rather than covering every category thinly. Selling the bearings individually is part of the same logic: a kit that can be serviced one joint at a time stays on the machine for years instead of being thrown away because one end got gritty. That is also why the options here are broken out by size, thread hand and type instead of being sold as one generic "replacement bearing."
Order The Exact Heim Joint Or Uniball You Need
Check the worn joint first: 5/8 or 3/4, rod end or uniball, and if it is a rod end, which thread hand. Then pick that line from the dropdown and order one — or two, if you want a spare in the trailer. If more than one joint in the rod has play, look at the full replacement bearing kit instead, which is available with spacers, o-rings and C-clips or as bearings only. And if what you are actually missing is hardware rather than a bearing, the spare hardware listing covers spacers, o-rings and clips on their own.
